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SPILANTHES ACMELLA FLOWER VESICLES

68

Safety score · 0–100

Fine

Derived from EU CosIng regulatory status, PubChem hazard data and published research. How we score.

About

Spilanthes flower vesicle extract known for plumping and firming skin

Spilanthes acmella flower vesicles deliver spilanthol (an N-alkyl amide alkene), which is a well-documented natural analgesic and sialogogue that causes a characteristic tingling paraesthesia on mucous membranes and skin. In cosmetics, spilanthol is marketed as a natural alternative to injected hyaluronic acid for its plumping and wrinkle-smoothing effect via depilation of superficial skin fibres. However, spilanthol is also a known skin sensitiser at elevated concentrations; the SCCS has noted this concern for Spilanthes acmella extracts. EU Regulation 1223/2009 does not place Spilanthes acmella in a restricted annex, but its use concentration is typically capped by practitioners below 1% to avoid irritation, placing it in the 60–74 range.

Skin benefits

  • Spilanthol provides a natural 'plumping' effect that temporarily reduces the appearance of fine lines
  • Anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties in traditional Brazilian and Indian medicine
  • Antioxidant flavonoids (spinasterol, oleanolic acid) in the flower protect skin from free radicals

Known concerns

  • Spilanthol is a known skin sensitiser and mild irritant at concentrations above 1%
  • May cause tingling or burning sensation — a known and expected effect but a concern for sensitive skin
  • Use concentration typically limited to ≤1% in cosmetic formulations

References

EU

EU CosIng database

European Commission cosmetic ingredient registry — regulatory status, restrictions, authorised functions.

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This profile is for educational purposes and does not constitute medical advice. Regulatory status and scientific understanding evolve — always read the physical product label and consult a healthcare professional for personal concerns.